Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Frog Giggin

There are days when you wish you had not promised someone something, well that day was today (15 January). Several months ago and virtually all of last year the kids would always ask me if I have eaten anything from a crocodiles to snakes. They have a fascination about asking if I have eaten snakes, There is a persistence in saying that mzungus eat snakes. I don’t know one person that has. I am not taking into account Andrew Zimmerman (from the Travel Channel). I am really not sure where this fetish comes from. 
Somewhere along the way they asked if I have eaten a frog. I honestly don’t remember eating one, but maybe once or so way back when.  My mom said she had, so I knew it was within the family. In a way to excite and see their disgusted looking faces, I said yes. I told them for some reason if they catch a big one I will cook it for them. Well that day was today. They found a descent size toad and brought it over. Chui (my cat) enjoyed his time playing with the toad with no intention of killing or eating, just playing. There were 3 kids that really wanted to try. I knew one kid would; he ate a live grasshopper in class last year (caught that one on video). I boiled then fried the toad. I gave the arms and legs to the 4 kids (Andrew did not want to try before, but when I finished cooking he wanted to taste). Maybe next time they will get a bigger toad.  
Cultural exchange of some sort.


Saturday, January 15, 2011

New Bed

A year has passed and I have a new bed. The bed that I used for the better part of last year was requested from the school to be used for visitors. I decided that I would rather have a wooden nicely built bed over continuing to use a kid’s bed the school offered me after I gave my original bed back. 
My first opportunity to have a personalized bed was exciting and I got exactly what I wanted; something simple with a book rack on the head board. After two weeks my bed was finished. I went to go pick it up this afternoon and had it taken to the house via a boda boda (bicycle) tied to the back. I am continuously amazed on how and what boda boda’s can carry. I have seen so many things tied to the back: a goat, 7 straw chairs, 4 people, bed and so many others. 
Due to the fact the bed was so big the man riding the boda had to push his bike to the school. Upon arriving at my house several kids were there anxious to ask me who’s bed this was. I informed them that it was mine then they were eager to help me carry out the old kids bed and bring in an adult bed.
There were six kids that had a great interest in helping put the bed together. They went right to work. Bickering and complaining among some of the kids blossomed into lackluster performance and corporation. I told them, “work together.” They got the message and worked on a section at a time making good progress. They came upon a speed bump, the side boards were not sliding into the head and foot board very well. I remember seeing the carpenter put corresponding markings on the boards to indicate which board attaches to what. I explained the importance to the kids of planning ahead so when the time to put something together it can run with less hiccups. We removed what we had done and switched around the side boards and they slid right in. 
These were the six kids that put the bed together.



Saturday, January 1, 2011

Christmas in Egypt


Cairo

December 19
I took a bus from Mumias to Nairobi where I spent the night at Milimani Backpackers. A ten hour bus ride is seldom any fun, but I knew the final destination would be worth it.
December 20
I met my two other traveling companions in Nairobi for our 17:30 flight to Cairo with a stop over in Adis Ababa, Ethiopia. Jon, Amanda, and myself dined for a sub sandwhich at Serit Center. We then took a city hoppa bus from downtown to the airport. Taking the city hoppa was only 50 kshs/ea compared to 1000 kshs for a taxi.
It was a strange feeling being back at JKIA (Joma Kenyatta International Airport) roughly one year ago I got off a plane where I left everything behind to undergo a journey of a lifetime. The journey is till continuing.
Our flight consisted of 3 meals. The flight to Adis Ababa, Ethiopia was 1 ½ hours but they game us a meal. Then the flight from their to Cairo we had two more meals. I was stuffed after the first one. I did not let the food go to waste.
December 21
We all arrived in Cairo around 03:30 and were taken to our hostel via a cab provided by the hostel. Going to bed once we got there was not a hard thing to do. Several hours later we got up for a late breakfast. Our first day to walk around the city a bit was nice to stretch the legs and see some new things.
Our first destination was Islamic Cairo. Walking through back alley ways and gazing at the various shops was interesting. The walk path was just big enough for a small car to slowly drive. How would I know that; a few cars made their way down the alley ways. I was amazed they were able to maneuver it without knocking over anything. There were a lot of shops selling carpet/rugs and fabric. 

December 22
Egyptian museum.
One thing that was interesting was the lights on the road that gave an additional reminder of a traffic light. This really did catch my attention. In Kenya there are roundabouts where you force yourself into the flow of traffic with no traffic lights, except for Nairobi.



This day was specifically set aside for visiting the Egyptian Museum. When we arrived there was already an extremely long line. We all agreed to talk a walk across the Nile River and come back after having lunch. On the way we saw the opera house. 




I am yet to understand the number of Tourist Police around all of the major attractions. When we visited the Pyramids our tour guide told us that there were about 50 tourist officers per monument/site. Some sites it felt like there were more police than tourist. I did see regular cops; they were usually were directing traffic. Also a vast majority of them had a bullet proof shield with them to protect from who knows what.


Lunch before heading to the Museum we backtracked a bit to look for some authenic Egyptian food at Abu Tarek.  Once arriving I remember watching an episode of No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain on the Travel Channel eating at this establishment. It looked the same from tv. Since I am a fan of the show it was nice to go there and try their food. Their main dish and seemingly only dish was Kosery. This consisted of noodles, lentils, fried onions with chili sauce. It was really good and a very simple dish. As you will see from the picture the men working the stations are going nonstop. There is high demand for good Koshery cooks. Also you will notice the customers are holding reciepts from orders waiting for it to be taken. It is as chaotic as it looks, but there was some structure to the chaos.


We were not allowed to take in cameras into the Museum so images are regulated to my memory for now. There are a few things that stick out to me. First, on the ground floor is two huge statues. These were several meters high; therefore the museum was built around it. Secondly was the the gold mask of King Tut (Tutankhamun) which weighed 23 lbs of solid gold. We wondered what the difference visually from a king and a pharaoh. We heard that is was whether they had a straight beard or one that curled up at the end. I recently was doing some research on the web and there seems to be a wide range of distinguishes from one to another based on the time/dynasty and the sculpture.

After finishing the museum we headed in a general direction of our hostel but of course we had taken the back streets. I really liked this method of seeing the city. We were able to see beyond the normal touristy trinkets and crowds and better
got a better idea of normal city life. On our way we saw this and just had to take a picture.


I am a big fan of street food and this was yet another example of taking a commodity and tweaking it abit and make it into an income generating activity. Roasted Sweet Potatoes.

During our walk we went down a street that was selling everything from clothes to food to motorcycles. I am used to looking through a big heap of clothes to find my size then bargaining for a good prize. This was different. The clothes were in shops on hangers with marked prices. It was a culture shock.
At dusk and with the hostel meters away it was time for the Muslims call to prayer. I was used to the call and people praying in the mosque. This picture is of men on the sidewalk  bowing to prayer in the middle of town. There are speakers throughout the city so missing the call to prayer seemingly could only granted if you are deaf and blind.


December 23
We took a visit to Coptic Cairo. I remember reading that there were coptic christians in Cairo, though just few compared to Muslims. The history of the area was interesting. It is traditionally held that the holy family hid in this area taking refuge from King Herod. 
Though the travel guide and Wikipedia hyped this area we all were disappointed. It was a tourist trap. We could not see the residental quarters. It was all around a let down. There was one bright spot though the Convent of Saint George. Depictions of St. George slaying a dragon are engraved in the outside of the church and the inside, paintings and more paintings. Reading the story of this is interesting. 
December 24
Pyramids
I think there are somethings in life where words don’t adequately paint a perfect picture, the pyramids are one of those times. Enjoy the pics.

December 25
Christmas in Alexandria
We took the train from Cairo at 8:30 and after a 2 hour ride we arrived in Alexandria. I was looking forward to looking at the scenery along the way but the smog, I mean fog was thick and consistent for most of the trip. The station in Cairo was under construction, the smell and feel also showed the same thing.


Kenya on the other hand has few bakeries, but their variety is very limited. The Arabs do it right. Of the many selections included date filled, hard and soft breads, rolls bread sticks and many others.
At the station in Alexandria we meet two people who joined us on our walk around for a brief period. The lady was a lawyer  from China but doing a one year stint in London and the gentlemen was a teacher in Japan apart of the DoDDs (Department of Defense) teaching at a military base to children of soldiers.
We walked for a good hour then went in and saw Ramsess II pillar at Amud El-Sawari. The site was in the middle of town with buildings surrounding it. After that we walked up a hill for a bit to some catacombs. I remember the catacombs in Rome and these also did not disappoint. Majority of the burial slots were a few feet by 6 or so feet. So though were quite deep.
After our visit 3 floors below the earth’s surface that was discovered because a donkey fell in hall in the early 1900s we walked back to the train. We had plans to visit the Mediterranean Sea and have fish for lunch. In brief we walked for 2 hours and ended up were we started. At this point we were tired and wanted to go to the train. Though we did not see the sea we did get to see some residential life.
Upon arriving back in Cairo we stopped several times for some food: gelato ice cream --WOW, fruit juice mix with slices of bananas, pomegranates and oranges, shwarma (hoaggie roll with onions and slices of meat, falafal (smashed green gramms with flour fried as a patty and served in a pita bread with veggies. I ate so much, but so worth every bite.

December 26
My last day in Cairo and Jon and I visited A sultan mosque a good 6 km away from the hostel. Along the way I saw this lady displaying her pita bread to be sold. You are correct that is the on the step. A few feet later another person had put theirs on atop of a roof of a car.

The Sultan Mosque was huge and is still in use today by Muslims. These men are washing themselves before going to pray.
Our last destination was the Citadel that overlooked the city. It was a spectacular view.